Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts

Sunday, 31 January 2021

Altered Wooden Panel for Finnabair and Re•design with Prima


Hi darlings, 

 

I promised to write a blogpost about my Facebook livestream for Finnabair and Redesign with Prima.

 

During the livestream, I turned a blank, wooden panel into my new working surface, using Redesign Décor stamps and Finnabair mixed media products – the full material list is at the end of this post.

 

The size of the panel is relatively large; 80cm x 55 cm (34.5” x 21.6”). I wanted this size, as it’d be large enough for my crafting projects, but also because the scale will be perfect proportion for photographing and making videos.

 

I wanted something vintage looking, tattered, old, worn out, loved; something charmingly imperfect, like old wall paintings. I also wanted it to fit into my studio colour palette of soft, faded dusty purples and softest of moss green and sea glass colour.

 

 

 

PRIMING 

 

First, of course, I kindly asked my hubby to cut me a panel. It was 4mm thick plywood in the end, as we happen to have that in masses at the moment, for our family model railway project. 

 

Then, I primed the panel, three times actually. First, I used chalk paint (leftovers from our upstairs stair renovation project) as I was running out of gesso, but after using chalk paint, I realised it’s quite not perfect for m purposes, the extremely porous surface. So, I gessoed the whole thing with white Finnabair Heavy Gesso, and added another layer, just to be sure I had the base I would be easy to work with.

 

 

 

STENCILING WITH  PAPER EFFECT PASTE & ICING PASTE

 

I wanted some dimensional effect to the sides of my panel to add interest. (The middle part of the panel I will use as my working surface, so I left it without 3D-effetcs, to get an even working surface.) And as I was aiming for vintage wall painting look, I wanted some rough effect, nothing too tidy. Hence, I picked Finnabair Paper Effect Paste for it, as it is a bit rougher than for example smooth Modeling Paste I usually use in my canvas projects. The stencil I used was Finnabair Vintage Wallpaper.

 

I tested if I could get some metallic shimmer to the paste if I used Finnabair Icing Paste (White Gold) mixed into the Paper Effect Paste, but I should have added it much more generously, as the light shimmer didn’t get through enough. But next time I know!

 

After making sure the stenciled patterns were completely dry, I started painting the panel. 

 

 

 

IMPASTO ACRYLICS WITH TEXTURE EFFECT POWDER

 

I wanted a softest of sea glass green, something between duck egg and Nile green, maybe you know what I mean, a kind of soft, faded, dusty mint maybe? I added a mix of these Finnabair acrylic Impasto paints (and again, the whole list with links at the end of this blogpost):  Snow White, Pitch Black, Victorian Green, Linen, Dark Chocolate, and Mint.

 

I mixed them well and added enough water to the mix, so it’d be easy to work with, and as I wanted the wall painting effect, I didn’t want the surface to be smooth, but something resembling concrete. So, I added white Finnabair Texture Powder into the mix.

 

Then, I sprayed the panel with water, so that it’d be easier to work with as the paints would not get dry or absorbed immediately. With a largeish brush and baby wipes, I spread and blended the paint into the panel evenly uneven way, making sure to be careful around the stenciled patterns, just in case they weren’t completely dry yet.

 

 

 

CLOUDING THE SIDES

 

After painting the whole panel, I wanted the sides to get a bit more structured effect, so I mixed a bit darker shade of paint mix and with brush and baby wipes, clouded the sides and blended them to the lighter colour. 

 

 

STAMPING

 

For the already darker paint mix, I added a bit of golden acrylic paint, Finnabair Sparks Dragon’s Eye, to get the stamping image to shimmer a bit. I mixed the paints and used my tiny roller for spreading the paint, I wanted only a trace of paint to my panel, as it was the tattered, worn out wall painting effect I was aiming for, so I needed to be extra careful not to add too much paint into my roller or stamp. I soon realized that adding the paint to the stamp was better to do with a brush than with a roller, when you are aiming for this kind of effect.

 

I actually double tested this after the live stream was over and yes, came into the conclusion that it’s best to use only the light consistency metallic paint or then just a tiniest trace of Impastos that are quite heavy consistency paints – and with a brush. Or, with a roller if there isn’t much paint in it. I also realized the stamp images get much clearer image and result without the acrylic block I used for the first stamps. Just so you know not to repeat my mistakes. (I did not have ReDesign stamp ink at hand as it’s not available in Finland, so I needed to figure out another way of using my gorgeous stamps. It’s a bit of a trial-and-error process for me, who is used to use water-based inks in art journals...)

 

First, I used Redesign Décor Stamp Sweet Blossoms, to get some greenery to border my panel with leaf and peony stamps.

 

Then, I wanted some crackling effect. Finnabair Crackle Paste (clear or white) would have been ideal, but I had only one hour for my live stream and could not wait for the crackling to dry and do its magic, so I used Redesign Décor Stamp Imperial Crackle for it, and added light traces of crackle here and there, on the edges of my panel.

 

And finally, I added Redesign Décor Stamp Floral Script to bring the crackle and floral patterns together with a handwriting pattern stamp. 

 

And as the finishing touch, I added a hint of Finnabair metallic wax to highlight the the stenciled dimensional patterns. I used the shades White Gold and Vintage Gold.

 

That was it. I love how it came out, the perfect shade of soft, faded sea glass colour and the tattered wall painting effect did come out nicely, too. You can re-watch my livestream video HERE.

 


 

And now the full list of materials… 

 

Heavy Gesso, white:

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-basics-heavy-gesso-white

 

Paper Texture Paste:

https://www.primamarketinginc.com/product/art-extravagance-paper-paste-250-ml/

 

Icing Paste, White Gold:

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-extravagance-icing-paste-white-gold

 

Stencil:

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-finnabair-stencil-vintage-wallpaper


Texture Powder:

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-ingredients-texture-powder


Impastos:

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-impasto-paint-dark-chocolate

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-impasto-paint-linen

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-impasto-paint-pitch-black 

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-impasto-paint-snow-white

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-impasto-paint-victorian-green

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-impasto-paint-mint

 

Metallic Sparks Dragon’s Eye:

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-sparks-dragons-eye

 

Metallic Waxes:

https://mixedmediaplace.com/prima-art-alchemy-metallique-wax-vintage-gold

https://www.primamarketinginc.com/product/art-alchemy-metallique-wax-white-gold/

 

ReDesign with Prima Décor Stamps:

https://www.redesignwithprima.com/product/redesign-decor-clear-cling-stamps-imperial-crackle-12x12-clear-cling/

https://www.redesignwithprima.com/product/redesign-decor-clear-cling-stamps-floral-script-12x12-clear-cling/

https://www.redesignwithprima.com/product/redesign-decor-clear-cling-stamps-sweet-blossoms-12x12-clear-cling/


80 cm x 55cm plywood panel

Brushes

Water spray bottle

Palette knife

Palette plate

Baby wipes

 

 

 



  

Monday, 12 October 2020

Vintage Style Botanical Lace Dyeing - Part 1.

I love using lace in my art journaling. It's just, they never seem to get the colours right these days... I want the laces to look old, actually used and worn and loved, faded, stained... So, I tried to dye them with tea as that's what people seem to do. I wasn't satisfied. So, my researcher side kicked in and I thought that if tea wasn't right, how about adding some coffee? Better. How about using different kinds of tea or coffee, does that matter? (Yes, it does.) And so on. It's a never ending adventure, I can assure you, dyeing lace. 

Usually I just throw in whatever I happen to have at hand, couple of these tea bags, just a bit of coffee (usually with Oops Effect, when my little turns out to be the whole bottle accidentally falling into the mix), some amount of water, some amount of time.The end result is different every time, as I want it to; that way I have lots of lovely vintage tone laces in varied hues. Also, the laces itself are a handful, as there are a huge difference if you use 100% natural fiber laces or synthetic ones, they all react differently, take different amount of time to absorb the dyes, and so on. But that's the fun of it, being a Lace Adventurer!

 

Now I've made as "scientific" test dyes as one can make with laces, making nogtes all the time, measuring everything, so you could see how different incredients make different hues, and how time can or then does not affect to the end result. 

Please note, in this blog post I'll explain only my own way of vintage style dyeing, so no actual colours are what we are after, but naturally vintage looking laces and silks.

Just a quick note before we start. Believe me, it's very simple process, dyeing lace. It takes triple the time to write the process than actually do it, so go ahead and try, maybe just not use your handmade heirloom laces, but something you are happy and comfortable to start to play with.

((Another quick word, a disclaimer, a warning, CAUTION! etc. Always use kitchen tools and kitchen ware that are solely reserved for dyeing purposes. Do not use the same items you use when cooking food, just in case. Also, it's completely ok with the tea and coffee stuff, but when we start adding interesting incredients like rusty nailheads, do make sure your ventilation is working properly. Be careful with the hot liquids, hot oven, and what else should I warn you about? Just, be careful and use your brain and common sense, thank you. End of disclaimer.))

We start with the materials needed. I explain in detail what and why, so you don't need to torn your hair because of too vague list; she said "a bowl" but do I need a big or small or plastic etc.

You will need...

* A stainless steel bowl/pot/kettle that can stand the heat

I use Ikea's Blanda Blank 36cm wide, approx. 4L - and this is not an advert, just a tip that it's an excellent for dyeing purposes. I would not recommend using plastic bowls, as they might react interestingly with hot liquids that include all kinds of ominous thingies like rusty nailheads. The same with glass ware; we are handling boiling hot liquids, so there's always a danger them to break. Use as big as you can get. (Ok, there's some limits how big, but you know, one that you can actually handle and put on your table.)

* A large spoon/ladle/pliers that can stand the heat

(Just maybe not made from wood). This is for handling the hot laces, without you needing to burn your fingers. Optional, but highly recommended.

*  Boiled water

* Tea Bags

I recommend tea bags, or if you use loose tea, please put it in a sieve or something. I prefer Earl Grey for its hue, but you need to find your our favourite by testing. And also, you don't need to use the most expensive tea leaves handpicked from Himalayan slopes at sunrise, but just, you know, the cheapes you can find would be just perfect. The laces won't mind. 

(Also, I recommend saving the used teabags for your crafting projects, a theme for another blog post, so we just leave it with that for now; save them, empty them, and put aside to dry.)

* Instant Coffee

The same as with the tea; you can use cheapest you can find. Although, it really matters what kind of coffee you use. If you use stuff from coffee machine, you'll need gallons of it, it's too diluted. Although I have a habit of pouring all the left overs into my "dye soup" if there is some. So, instant coffee, as you can easily spoon some more to the soup if needed. I have tested several different brands and labels inside brands and have noticed some give more dirtyish, gold brown hues than others, so you just need to test to find your favourites. Nestle's Nescafe Gold is true to its word and quite a lovely golden shade. (It's a subject entirely different, if I would ever be voluntarily drinking that stuff.)

* Laces 

Any lace will do. They react differently, depending to the material they are made of; synthetic, cotton, silk, linen... So, test and find your favourites to work with!

* Kitchen paper and/or baking paper for drying

 

Next level materials:

* Powdered Cinnamon: not the quality stuff, the cheapest will do.

* Dark Chocolate Powder: not the quality stuff, the cheapest will do.

* An old kettle: for heating the dye mix, so it'll not be usable for cooking food after this!

* Rusty nailheads or other rusty metallic objects that fit into your bowl.

* Fresh sage leaves

I use clary sage (Salvia sclarea var. turkestanica), because I happen to have masses in our kitchen garden, but I have tested with ordinary sage, too, and it'll have almos the samee effect, so no need to start a kitchen garden, plant clary sage seeds, grow them, and then test this one out.


 Variables

All the fabrics, laces, silks, papers, everything especially containg natural fibres, have a different way of reacting with natural dyes, so it indeed is a variable of its own. The water you are using is another variable (pH etc.), and so on. So, you might not get the exact shades you see in my example photos, but don't worry; dyeing is fun, so the more you try, the more you learn and understand it, and you will get there and find the colours you are after!

The colour will depend espcially on the tea and coffee you use. Ceylon and English Breakfast I happened to have at hand for the test, are much more yellow than my preferred choices of more red brownish tee, like Earl Grey. Also, my Nescafe Original isn't as good a warm brown as Nescafe Golden, more dirty colour.

Time is an important variable, too, so I have used exactly the same amount of time for each test rounds (of exactly the same materials). I decided to show you also the differencee between a quick dip and a longer soaking:

Quick dip = 10 seconds

Long soak = 1 hour

Here, in the photo above are the materials I used for this blogpost test dyeing. I choosed a lot of different materials to give you the idea how they react. There might be considerable difference in the end result, depending on the material and dyeing time - or, there might be no reaction or no difference at all!   

Drying

If you have small amounts of laces or fabrics or silks to dry, they will dry perfectly well on top of a baking sheet. If you have possibility to use outdoors drying, that'd be perfect - the dripping dye liquid might stain your floor, if you let them dry in a drying rack inside.

A way to quicken the process of drying is to use oven. A word of caution; please do not ever leave the oven unsupervised if you dry your laces; especially synthetic materials are a fire hazard. Therefore I do not recommend using oven for synthetic materials at all. On the other hand, I do use oven for drying pure cotton and silk materials, but only approx. 1-5 minutes, in 150 Celsius degrees, under my alert eyes all the time. 

 

1. Tea and Coffee - The Basic Vintage Dyeing

With this basic dyeing method, you'll have nice and easy vintage style laces and silks. Here's how I did it, with exact measurements. For each and every test round, I used this same basic dye mix, I just added more incgredients into this original one.

BASIC TEA & COFFEE DYE MIX

* Pour 2 litres of boiling water into the (stainless steel) bowl.

* Add 14 (I used 10 Ceylon teabags and 4 English Breakfast teabags) into the bowl.

* Add 4 tablespoon of instant coffee.

* Stir and let the water absorb the colours from the teabags and coffee until you feel it's quite safe for you to put your fingers into the mix (without burning your fingers, please).

* Put your laces/silks into the bowl, stir well, let them absorb the colour, and take out after you are satisfied with the result.

* Rinse well and dry. 

That's it! It's that simple.


Optional, but nice - The Next Level Dyeing

Now you know how easy it is to get some colour into your laces, I'll tell you more. When you add cinnamon to your dyeing mix, it'll not only give the most wonderful scent, but also gives a much more gentle, warmer tone to the laces and silks. Then, when you add on top of that a bit of dark chocolate powder, the colour changes again... For me, the favourite effect comes when I add rusty nails (you know, the ones you use with hammer) and just a bit of sage to the mix. The rust causes a chemical reaction and turns the colours into gorgeusly soft grey tones. And a bit of sage deepens the colours.
 
Now, I have a massive hole in my very efficient tests. Namely, I used my already black stained, rusty nails instead of "fresh" rusty ones. How to get them to turn into a black mess? I boiled them with plants for a couple of hours while dyeing papers (another blogpost entirely), so maybe you could do the same; add rusty metal objects like nails, screws, keys, anything you will never need to anything but dyeing afterwards, as tehy'll be absolutely deliciously ruined. They'll end up looking like this:


2. Tea, Coffee & Cinnamon Dye

Cinnamon adds a bit depth and warmth to the mix, but it does not come out in the photo as well as it does in real life. Also, if you use Earl Greay or other darker black teas for the mix instead of my yellowish Ceylon mix, the colours you'll get with cinnamon, are much deeper!

The basic mix is the same I used for the tea&coffee dye, I just added cinnamon into the original one instead of making a new dye mix.

TEA, COFFEE & CINNAMON DYE MIX

* Pour 2 litres of boiling water into the (stainless steel) bowl.

* Add 14 (I used 10 Ceylon teabags and 4 English Breakfast teabags) into the bowl.

* Add 4 tablespoon of instant coffee.

* Add 1 tablespoon of cinnamon powder.

* Stir and let the water absorb the colours until you feel it's quite safe for you to put your fingers into the mix (without burning your fingers, please).

* Put your laces/silks into the bowl, stir well, let them absorb the colour, and take out after you are satisfied with the result.

* Rinse well and dry. 


3. Tea, Coffee, Cinnamon & Chocolate Dye

Like cinnamon, chocolate adds a lovely brown depth and warmth to the mix. (Again, if you use Earl Greay or other darker black teas for the mix instead of my yellowish Ceylon mix, the colours you'll get with cinnamon, are much deeper!)

The basic mix is the same I used for the tea&coffee dye, with cinnamon. I just added dark chocolate powder to 2 dl boiling water (to make sure sure the chocolate melts and blends into the liquid mix evenly), and poured it into the dye mix. I used van Houten's dark chocolate powder.

TEA, COFFEE, CINNAMON & CHOCOLATE DYE MIX

* Pour 2 litres of boiling water into the (stainless steel) bowl.

* Add 14 (I used 10 Ceylon teabags and 4 English Breakfast teabags) into the bowl.

* Add 4 tablespoon of instant coffee.

* Add 1 tablespoon of cinnamon powder. 

* Add 1 tablespoon of dark chocolate powder mixed in 2 dl boiling water.

* Stir and let the water absorb the colours until you feel it's quite safe for you to put your fingers into the mix (without burning your fingers, please).

* Put your laces/silks into the bowl, stir well, let them absorb the colour, and take out after you are satisfied with the result.

* Rinse well and dry.


4. Tea, Coffee, Cinnamon, Chocolate & Rust Dye

If cinnamon and chocolate add some lovely depth and warmth to the dye mix, wait until you have tested some rust effect!

The basic mix is the same I added tea&coffee dye, with cinnamon and chocolate. For this mixture, I did as follows:

I took my dyeing kettle (it's 5L one) and put rusty nails there. I poured the whole dye mixture into the kettle, added  a sage leaf and let it boil. 

The difference of this mixture can be seen in the two versions of A and B: the end result is different, if you dye your laces in boiling hot mixture and in a cooled mixture! 

The boiling mixture will give you lovely brownish grey or greyish brown results, and the cooled mixture will give soft grey tones. Proceed the same way in both, just leave the mixture cool before testing the B. option.

 TEA, COFFEE, CINNAMON, CHOCOLATE & RUST DYE 

-in boiling water // in cooled water-

* Pour 2 litres of boiling water into the (stainless steel) bowl.

* Add 14 (I used 10 Ceylon teabags and 4 English Breakfast teabags) into the bowl.

* Add 4 tablespoon of instant coffee.

* Add 1 tablespoon of cinnamon powder. 

* Add 1 tablespoon of dark chocolate powder mixed in 2 dl boiling water.

* 34 rusty nails.

* 1 leaf of sage or clary sage.

* Let the mixture boil. (And cool, if you want only soft grey tones.)

* Stir and let the water absorb the colours until you feel it's quite safe for you to put your fingers into the mix (without burning your fingers, please).

* Put your laces/silks into the bowl, stir well, let them absorb the colour, and take out after you are satisfied with the result.

* Rinse well and dry. 
 
***

And that's it, really, for a start. 

There is no limit there, how you can play with these incredients. Add more tea, leave coffee out. Add cardamom, with a hint of common yarrow. Add more rusty items, let them boil or soak longer. And so on, so on, and endlessly so.

Here are some photos of my test materials in neatish rows, so you can see the difference (or none) beetween the dyes and the time. Test what are your favourites!



 




Yay, you made it here! Thank you, darling for your company! Wishing you inspiring moments with dyeing your laces in vintage style. And, hopefully soon I'll finish my tutorial for botanically dyed papers, and after that' we'll get back to the botanical lace dyeing and have proper plant soaking moments...

Emilia, xx


P.S. All rights reserved. (To the mistakes, too.)  The pictures, the measurements and all are my own work, so please do not share them as your own but tag me, harvinaisenkauniselama on social media, if you got inspired!

Thursday, 5 October 2017

Paper Waxing Tutorial



Paper waxing is fun, easy, and a really quick way to do something different with your papers. I tried it a while ago and took photos of the process, so now I'm able to make my first tutorial ever. 

I tried to wax vintage tickets, Classiky papers, tissue papers, silk papers, book sheets, Lamp x Paperi stickers, coffee dyed papers, even a collage I made using washis, stickers, and glued papers. I also tried how stamp ink and laser printed paper react with wax. Quite fine, I think. Even the glue, washi, and stickers hold. Different papers have different textures and I found some absorb more wax, others less, and they react with heat differently.

This is how I did it, and please feel free to have different methods, and, please note that this is a very unofficial way of doing it. I just figured out it could work like this.

YOU'LL NEED:

- papers you want to wax

- old candles, crumbled to small morsel

- baking sheets (at least 3 sheets)

- kitchen paper roll

- iron and iron board


HOW IT WORKS:

1. Pick the papers you want to wax. Spread a baking sheet to the iron board, and put your papers on the sheet. Spread candle crumbs on the papers, and add another sheet on top. Spread another sheet on the table near you for the waxed papers.


2. Heat the iron, and iron over the sheets. You'll see how the wax melts and spreads on the papers. You might need to adjust them a bit and add some candle crumbs if the result is uneven. (Or, do it like me, and let it be just as it turns out. Different textures, different out comes are all welcome.)


3. Pick the waxed papers and put them to cool on to a baking sheet or paper or whatever you want to use, but please note they are a bit creasy, so you might want to cover your table. 


4. After cooling, check if there is too much wax and put the papers between two kitchen papers and iron once more, this will absorb the extra wax.




 WAXING STAMPED AND LASER PRINTED PAPERS:

I noticed the result is betters if you put the stamped or printed side of the paper towards the iron board. This might prevent the inks to spread with the wax. I tested this several times and noticed that with our printer inks, the black ink has a bit larger tendency to crackle than other colours. So, test your inks with a bit less valuable pictures. I found it rather charming how an uneven and crackling outcome of the waxing process makes the pictures look like vintage photos.


I hope you like the waxing as much as I do! Experiment with different textures, colours, prints... I'd love to see how your waxing turn out! Tag me in Instagram @harvinaisenkauniselama or leave a comment, thank you dear!